Kuta, Lombok

Hello!

Another email from me! Intrepid adventurer. I have been an intrepid adventurer this week! So we left rat infested hotel in padangbai, Bali, on Saturday morning nice and early. We got our batik paintings back which looked fab! Off to the ferry we went. We had opted for the public ferry which takes 4 hours to Lombok but is very big. We could have taken a speedboat but it was three times the price and very small and we were a bit worried about the choppy channel. As it happens the big boat wasn't too bad, took a little longer as we had to wait for a space in the harbour in Lombok but we were back on dry land within 5 hours. And it was only a tiny bit choppy through deep water. No green looking people which made me very pleased! Our transport collected us and drove us on to Kuta where we had decided to stay on Lombok. We had originally planned to go to a place called Sengiggi but when in Malaysia we met a couple who said it was really touristy and full of sleazy old men so we changed plans. Kuta is on the south coast so a bit of a trek to our next destination as that is off the north coast off Lombok but oh it was worth it! Kuta really has been amazing!

Before we got here, I read in the guide book that its a bit of a hidden gem , diamond in the rough type place. A company from Dubai tried to set up a huge resort about 3 years ago here and something went wrong and plans fell through but I'm sure if that had gone through then it wouldn't be such a pleasant place as it is now. So we arrived Saturday around 4 pm. Checked into our hotel or 'homestay' as they call them here. We had a wander up to kuta beach. Almost certainly my favourite beach of the trip so far! A large bay, with hills and cliffs around it, some nice white sand and as the tide was out there were thousands of tiny rock pools filled with bright turquoise water. The tide was out really far, we could only just see some waves on the horizon and many locals were out fishing in the rock pools. The pools of water made a lovely sunset too. John was a little disappointed as the wave break looked so far out which might make it hard to surf but we thought we should check it out in the morning when the tide was in. The next day we headed down to the beach. The main road was filled with scooters whizzing off to nearby beaches with surf boards on the side, as well as ponies pulling carts of locals off to do daily errands. Most of the tiny shops and warungs (restaurant) here are just bamboo shacks really and there is a real authentic feel with women barbecuing freshly caught squid and smoking fish at the side of the road. The tide was in when we reached the beach and the view was just breath taking. The most bright turquoise sea I have ever laid my eyes on! As it was Sunday the beach was full of local kids playing in the sea splashing around and having fun. We wandered along for a while with all the kids running up to us for a chat wanting to practice their English. As we sat for a drink some women asked if we wanted to buy a sarong and as we didn't she sat and chatted to us for a while. More of her friends came and then some young girls selling bracelets. I said I didn't want tp buy one but could they show me how to make one of the braids (I can do a few but this one had me baffled). Turns out the women were quite baffled too but one of the young girls showed us and we all sat there having a go! One thing which I found odd here is they all had fairly western names like sandra and julie. Made it easier for us though! After lunch we walked further around the beach and found a few little coves and private beaches where we sat and watched the tide go out. There were some trees right by the edge of the sea and we could see when the tide was out that the roots had grown along the floor and back up vertically out of the ground in search of the water! Looked very strange! John was again a but disappointed as the decent waves were miles away from the shore meaning he might struggle to get out to them without a boat. As we walked home we passed a few surf shops so I suggested we ask if there is another beach we could try or maybe he should have a lesson as that way we might get the board and transport all thrown in together. The first shop was expensive but the second one was reasonable and he said we could go the next day. John was a bit unsure but we said what the hell we cant come to Indonesia and him not surf so we booked it.

So Monday morning we headed off early to the surf shop. I went on the back of the instructors (Ronny) moped as john was a bit wobbly and quite frankly I didn't trust his moped driving skills! No offense ;) Ronny was a little bit speedy but we had a nice chat which took my mind off the speedometer. By the time we go to the beach I knew that Ronny had had a girlfriend but she married another man, that he was 20 (turns out he is actually 18 but they don't follow their age here) , that he is lomboks number two surfer and that he only crashed the bike when racing. It took us about 40 minutes to get to the beach but we rode through the countryside where Ronny pointed out tobacco farms and herds of cows with their bells on. We went up through some hills where you could see most of the south coast and it really was beautiful. We reached the beach and it was even more stunning than kuta beach. And not a soul there except us (it was 9am I guess) a few fishermen and their wives cooking up the daily catch. The tide was out so we had to sit and wait a while for a wave. After around 55 minutes the waves started to roll in and john got in the water. I got to use his big fancy camera to zoom in and get some photos so I was happy! It took him a few goes but he was stood up and surfing in no time having loads of fun. Ronny got another board from the rental shack and he started showing off his moves too. After a couple of hours and many photos the beach had started to fill (maximum around 30 people so still v quiet!). Ronny kept asking if I wanted to try but I said oh no no I'm fine. As time went on a noticed quite a few girls giving it a go. And then Ronny started helping a couple of british girls as they were struggling to get going and I thought 'I quite want to see what all the fuss is about' so I said id try. John got behind the camera (shame we didn't have video as definitely a few you've been framed moments) and I waded into meet ronny. As I was scrabbling aboard said surf board I thought what am I thinking but NY this point it was too late! He showed me how to stand up and pushed me along a wave shouting 'up up' - my queue to stand. I just laid there as it was quite pleasant! But yes apparently you're supposed to stand not just lay there. So Ronny continued to push me into waves. I managed a lot of kneeling as well as a crouch but couldnt quite stand. Also managed a lot of face plants into waves and learnt the first rule of surfing - when you feel yourself fall - shut your mouth! That I learnt very quickly! Ronny and john had a good old chuckle at me swallowing sea water. So although it was very fun, I hadn't quite managed to stand and the waves got bigger so i left it to the boys. We rode back through the beautiful scenery of south Lombok and decided we had enjoyed it so much that we had better have another go tomorrow.

So this morning, same story, down to the surf shop, jumped on mopeds , rode through lomboks south to the beach. Again the beach was empty. The tide was coming in so there were some nice small waves for me to start. Again, quite a lot of face planting into waves- although no swallowing sea water today. But I managed to stand up! Wooooooo! Quite a few times actually. I think Ronny got a little miffed when I couldn't do it and said 'here let me show you again' and proceeded to demo and explain how to stand up on the board. I replied with 'I can see how you want me to do it but my body doesnt physically do that!' But I managed a standing surf in a sort of fashion! No where near as nimble and athletic looking as Ronny or john but never mind! And it was a lot of fun. I also think being plunged head first into many waves has diminished my phobia of the sea. Another bonus! We saw the girls who Ronny helped yesterday again and john and Ronny surfed with them for a bit and we chatted to them turns out they live quite near john at home! Ronny demonstrated his party trick of surfing on his head (I kid you not!) Of which I have photographic evidence!!! On the way home ronny asked if we wanted to see another beach called Mawi. We had heard that mawi had proper waves and was where the big boys surfed so we said yes of course. Bloody hell! These waves were ginormous. A lot of surfers sat on the beach watching who ever was out on the water and attempting to surf the 8foot monsters that kept rolling in. These guys were immense! The power of the waves as the charged in was scary. Its terrifying really to think as john noted yesterday that that wave probably started near the arctic and hasn't stopped til it hits you- that's a lot of power! We sat at mawi for an hour or so admiring the talent and taking photos. I asked ronny if the waves I had surfed were that big to which he chuckled and said ' no no yours was only 2foot' ha ha! So we rode back all salty and sandy and left Ronny with his surf shop. I never thought I would enjoy it but it was so much fun and I'm so glad we went back again today. Tell you what though I can see how surfers get such tremendous bodies as i ache everywhere now!

So tomorrow we leave kuta. This makes me a little sad as I feel it is definitely a place that grows on you. On Saturday when we arrived I loved the beach but apart from that I thought 'oh there's nothing here not much to do' and was expecting to be bored really. But as you stay and observe you see the locals immersed in their daily lives and the culture shows through. The people here have all been so welcoming and friendly and it has a perfect balance between being friendly to foreigners but without being too touristy. perfect really. We will definitely come back to see more of Indonesia it has been my favourite country so far and kind of blows the socks off the others really! But for now, I am glad that we chose kuta as our stop in Lombok as it has been fantastic. Next stop is Gili Meno to hopefully see some turtles. The hotel we managed to book apparently has the best views on the island so we are looking forward to that! Although it is our last week I think we saved the best til last :-)

Off for dinner now as a bit peckish after my adventurous day! But hope all is good at home and see you all soon, lots of love XXX PS photographic proof of the surfing attached. Its q photo of the camera screen so bad quality but you get the idea! And one of Ronny party trick ;)